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  #11  
Old September 3rd 04, 10:15 PM
Sharon Talbert
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Wendy, how is the ferocious feral kitten coming? Your story reminded me
of a black kitten who inspired the term, "pink hisses." Though in your
case (and hers, as well), the hisses were more than just noives.

What you might try for Red Tongue is isolating him/her in cage with you as
the only contact. Physical contact is very important to kittens; you just
may start to look pretty good to this kitten after a day or two "in stir."

Separating the fractious kitten from its siblings may well help settle the
other kittens down as well.

Sharon Talbert
Friends of Campus Cats
  #12  
Old September 7th 04, 01:18 AM
Wendy
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"Sharon Talbert" wrote in message
. washington.edu...

Wendy, how is the ferocious feral kitten coming? Your story reminded me
of a black kitten who inspired the term, "pink hisses." Though in your
case (and hers, as well), the hisses were more than just noives.

What you might try for Red Tongue is isolating him/her in cage with you as
the only contact. Physical contact is very important to kittens; you just
may start to look pretty good to this kitten after a day or two "in stir."

Separating the fractious kitten from its siblings may well help settle the
other kittens down as well.

Sharon Talbert
Friends of Campus Cats


Thelma (aka Red Tongue) is coming along slowly and her tongue is no longer
bright red. I guess it must have been from her being so freaked out. She no
longer launches herself across the cage at me and tolerates being picked
up.. She puts up with the tickles under the chin and every once in a while
almost looks like she's considering whether to enjoy it or not. Then she
catches herself and down go the ears. Her sister, Louise, OTOH has become a
traitor and gone over to the other side. She cries for attention and does a
fair amount of purring when picked up and snuggled for a bit. We also now
have her brother who is very shy but does like the chin tickle and isn't
afraid to show it. He isn't wild about being picked up but will tolerate it
as long as it isn't for long. So I'm at least able to clean out the cage
without risking skin and don't have to resort to the welders gloves. I've
been able to worm all of them and get their ears cleaned out and treated
for ear mites.

I never would have thought of isolating her. I would have been afraid that
might have upset her more. Do you think that still might help her? If so
I'll certainly give it a try.

We have 7 kittens from that "colony" and 4 are pretty friendly and the other
three are still works in progress. At what point do you start showing them
for adoption?

W


  #13  
Old September 7th 04, 01:18 AM
Wendy
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Default


"Sharon Talbert" wrote in message
. washington.edu...

Wendy, how is the ferocious feral kitten coming? Your story reminded me
of a black kitten who inspired the term, "pink hisses." Though in your
case (and hers, as well), the hisses were more than just noives.

What you might try for Red Tongue is isolating him/her in cage with you as
the only contact. Physical contact is very important to kittens; you just
may start to look pretty good to this kitten after a day or two "in stir."

Separating the fractious kitten from its siblings may well help settle the
other kittens down as well.

Sharon Talbert
Friends of Campus Cats


Thelma (aka Red Tongue) is coming along slowly and her tongue is no longer
bright red. I guess it must have been from her being so freaked out. She no
longer launches herself across the cage at me and tolerates being picked
up.. She puts up with the tickles under the chin and every once in a while
almost looks like she's considering whether to enjoy it or not. Then she
catches herself and down go the ears. Her sister, Louise, OTOH has become a
traitor and gone over to the other side. She cries for attention and does a
fair amount of purring when picked up and snuggled for a bit. We also now
have her brother who is very shy but does like the chin tickle and isn't
afraid to show it. He isn't wild about being picked up but will tolerate it
as long as it isn't for long. So I'm at least able to clean out the cage
without risking skin and don't have to resort to the welders gloves. I've
been able to worm all of them and get their ears cleaned out and treated
for ear mites.

I never would have thought of isolating her. I would have been afraid that
might have upset her more. Do you think that still might help her? If so
I'll certainly give it a try.

We have 7 kittens from that "colony" and 4 are pretty friendly and the other
three are still works in progress. At what point do you start showing them
for adoption?

W


  #14  
Old September 11th 04, 12:53 AM
Sharon Talbert
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default



I never would have thought of isolating her. I would have been afraid that
might have upset her more. Do you think that still might help her? If so
I'll certainly give it a try.


I would try it, for this little one. It just might make her focus on
human company instead of her siblings. Also, her negative energy will not
be affecting her siblings. She is probably always going to be
high-strung; let's hope you find a sympathetic home for her, even if as a
companion to a lonely housecat.

Another trick would be to put her in a highly-trafficked space (such as
your living room), but caged and separate from the other cats. Then hold
her in your lap every chance you get. Isolation is my vote, though.

We have 7 kittens from that "colony" and 4 are pretty friendly and the other
three are still works in progress. At what point do you start showing them
for adoption?


As they become socialized, put them on the adoption block as soon as they
are old enough (8 wks min.), healthy and sterilized. Works for us!

Sharon Talbert
Campus Cats

  #15  
Old September 11th 04, 12:53 AM
Sharon Talbert
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default



I never would have thought of isolating her. I would have been afraid that
might have upset her more. Do you think that still might help her? If so
I'll certainly give it a try.


I would try it, for this little one. It just might make her focus on
human company instead of her siblings. Also, her negative energy will not
be affecting her siblings. She is probably always going to be
high-strung; let's hope you find a sympathetic home for her, even if as a
companion to a lonely housecat.

Another trick would be to put her in a highly-trafficked space (such as
your living room), but caged and separate from the other cats. Then hold
her in your lap every chance you get. Isolation is my vote, though.

We have 7 kittens from that "colony" and 4 are pretty friendly and the other
three are still works in progress. At what point do you start showing them
for adoption?


As they become socialized, put them on the adoption block as soon as they
are old enough (8 wks min.), healthy and sterilized. Works for us!

Sharon Talbert
Campus Cats

  #16  
Old September 11th 04, 02:00 PM
Wendy
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Sharon Talbert" wrote in message
. washington.edu...


I never would have thought of isolating her. I would have been afraid

that
might have upset her more. Do you think that still might help her? If so
I'll certainly give it a try.


I would try it, for this little one. It just might make her focus on
human company instead of her siblings. Also, her negative energy will not
be affecting her siblings. She is probably always going to be
high-strung; let's hope you find a sympathetic home for her, even if as a
companion to a lonely housecat.

Another trick would be to put her in a highly-trafficked space (such as
your living room), but caged and separate from the other cats. Then hold
her in your lap every chance you get. Isolation is my vote, though.

We have 7 kittens from that "colony" and 4 are pretty friendly and the

other
three are still works in progress. At what point do you start showing

them
for adoption?


As they become socialized, put them on the adoption block as soon as they
are old enough (8 wks min.), healthy and sterilized. Works for us!

Sharon Talbert
Campus Cats


We're doing an adoption weekend this weekend. I took the two little ones,
Louise and one of the older ones, Tonto. We didn't even get all the cages
set up when someone was filling out an application for one of the little
ones. I didn't figure he'd be around long. I think I might take Harry down
if that adoption goes through. He has pretty much stopped hissing on GP and
enjoys his chin tickles. He can be picked up and handled and doesn't lower
the ears. If we can find a home without young children (or even better no
children) I think he'll come around. When I get my cages back I'll try
isolating Thelma and see how it goes.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed the friendly ones are adopted this weekend so
I have more time for my shy guys.

Wendy


  #17  
Old September 11th 04, 02:00 PM
Wendy
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Sharon Talbert" wrote in message
. washington.edu...


I never would have thought of isolating her. I would have been afraid

that
might have upset her more. Do you think that still might help her? If so
I'll certainly give it a try.


I would try it, for this little one. It just might make her focus on
human company instead of her siblings. Also, her negative energy will not
be affecting her siblings. She is probably always going to be
high-strung; let's hope you find a sympathetic home for her, even if as a
companion to a lonely housecat.

Another trick would be to put her in a highly-trafficked space (such as
your living room), but caged and separate from the other cats. Then hold
her in your lap every chance you get. Isolation is my vote, though.

We have 7 kittens from that "colony" and 4 are pretty friendly and the

other
three are still works in progress. At what point do you start showing

them
for adoption?


As they become socialized, put them on the adoption block as soon as they
are old enough (8 wks min.), healthy and sterilized. Works for us!

Sharon Talbert
Campus Cats


We're doing an adoption weekend this weekend. I took the two little ones,
Louise and one of the older ones, Tonto. We didn't even get all the cages
set up when someone was filling out an application for one of the little
ones. I didn't figure he'd be around long. I think I might take Harry down
if that adoption goes through. He has pretty much stopped hissing on GP and
enjoys his chin tickles. He can be picked up and handled and doesn't lower
the ears. If we can find a home without young children (or even better no
children) I think he'll come around. When I get my cages back I'll try
isolating Thelma and see how it goes.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed the friendly ones are adopted this weekend so
I have more time for my shy guys.

Wendy


  #18  
Old September 13th 04, 10:11 PM
Sharon Talbert
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


Yee hah! Now may I send you a couple of growing kittens from Campus Cats
who haven't yet found homes?

Sharon Talbert
Campus Cats
Seattle
  #19  
Old September 13th 04, 10:11 PM
Sharon Talbert
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


Yee hah! Now may I send you a couple of growing kittens from Campus Cats
who haven't yet found homes?

Sharon Talbert
Campus Cats
Seattle
  #20  
Old September 13th 04, 10:26 PM
Priscilla H Ballou
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Default

Sharon Talbert quoth:

As they become socialized, put them on the adoption block as soon as they
are old enough (8 wks min.), healthy and sterilized. Works for us!


Sharon, Sprocket's vet says he's too young to be tested for Feline
Leukemia. She says there are a lot of false negatives when they're tested
this young. He was 4 weeks old when she saw him, and she's seeing him
again at 8 weeks of age. Do you know when he'll be old enough to test
effectively?

Thanks!

Priscilla
 




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