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Clicker Training for Dogs Newsgroups?



 
 
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  #1  
Old September 12th 05, 06:52 PM
Dr. Von
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Clicker Training for Dogs Newsgroups?

Jen wrote:
I would love to know of one as well. If there was enough people interested
maybe we could start one. I've just started clicker training my dog and
have been doing the positive training for a while now. I think it's great!!

Jen


"artbylucy" wrote in message
. ..
Hello,

Does anyone know of a dedicated newsgroup for positive-only dog training,
in particular clicker training?

Thanks,
Lucy

Jen, your request for a positive only dog training list, needs the same
answer as I give the folk who ask why I don't have a list for what I do
with biofeedback. The method is so simple, and if you adopt it and
relate to your dog in such a positive manner you won't have any more
problems and there is no need for any more technique. With Puppies we
Ph.D. psychologists have been outflanked by the entirely practical and
effective methods described in http://www.tinyurl.com/7bl5u. Free
download, nothing sold, no mailing list,
no distribution of your name. Free support if needed.

With ADHD kids I provide similar information at www.drbiofeedback.com
and
there is no need for a list dealing with problems with kids. Apply as
directed and have happy healthy doggies or kiddies. Not difficult.
George von Hilsheimer, Ph.D., F.R.S.H.

P.S. jerk and choke, spanking, shocking, scruff shake, choke, chin
chucks,
all those negatives, denial of affection etc. are harmful, dranging,
obscenities. You might want to consider Pavlov's typology to
understand
"hard and soft dogs" - essentially he taught that there are outward and

inward responding organisms in weak and strong nervous systems and if
you
grasp this firmly you'll shape your training methods effectively.
Punishment ALWAYS deranges behavior, and so is recommended and given
only by deranged
humans. Of course, it doesn't matter if we are talking dogs, cats,
people,
sheep, even husbands. Dr. Von

  #2  
Old September 14th 05, 10:06 PM
A Poor Shepherd Boy And His Dog At His Masters Fee
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Hello artbylucy,

artbylucy wrote:
Hello,

Does anyone know of a dedicated newsgroup
for positive-only dog training,


These are the ONLY ones which offer 100%
consistently nearly instantly effective
non physical non confrontational scientific
and psychological techniques for all critters
and all temperament and behavior problems.

in particular clicker training?


If you've been following this thread, even
the most highly ignorant of our dog lovers
are aware that offering and witholding bribes
causes aggression hyperactivity phobias OCD'S
and seizures.

Offering and withholding bribes/rewards and
sometimes PRAISING and sometimes PUNISHING
behaviors contradicts the PRINCIPLES of
behavior and violates the SCIENTIFIC METHOD.

You CANNOT effectively train ANY critter using
BOTH punishment and praise, you've got to use
ONLY ONE or the other or you'll make dogs PSYCHO.

Thanks,


You're welcome.

Lucy


Here's PROOF:

Hello Jeff,

Jeff Dege wrote:
On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 02:21:10 +0000, Jen wrote:

Ok. You have the right to your opinion.


Dog training isn't a matter of OPINION, it's SCIENCE.

That's fine.


Not fine if you don't know the SCIENCE.

I don't mean any offence.


Not to worry, you don't have to apologize for
having a difference of OPINION about hurting
intimidating and murdering innocent defenseless
dumb critters.

I have been interacting with a particular strident,
obnoxious, and ineffective group of self-professed
"purely positive" trainers.


Water seeks it's own level, don't it.

So I tend to be a bit sensitive.


Naaah? A SENSITIVE NAZI??? BUNK!

As for my opinion,


Your opinion is welcome here on these
open unmoderated news groups.

I generally agree with you.


That's convienient. IN FACT, it's MANDATORY
or the SCIENTIFIC METHOD will FAIL. Let's all
do the Monkey Macarena together so we know
what's up.

I just recognize that dogs are different,


Different from what? Children? Kats?

and that what works well for most dogs doesn't
work for all.


That's because you're not familiar with
the SCIENTIFIC METHOD.

"Jeff Dege" wrote in message
news

Like assuming that physical reprimands are bad,


Yeah, like PRESUMING ANY behavior is BAD.
Dogs and children DO NOT DO BAD behaviors
they REFLEX in PREDICTABLE NORMAL NATURAL
NINATE INSTINCTIVE REFLEXIVE ways to situations
and circumstances of their environment which
we create for them.

while ignoring misbehavior is good.


You can't train ANY behavior by IGNORING IT.

You simply can't assume that is the case for
all dogs.


Not unless you was following the SCIENTIFIC METHOD, Jeff.

Like this:

Hello Robin, Golden Girl Goddess Of Ethickal
Breeding and Competitive Agility,

Robin Nuttall wrote:
Jen wrote:


Thanks Diana. I'm there now.


Yes, Diana is a true dog lover, just like Robin
only not as kindly to us Ugly Americans!

Many of the people here need such a lesson
on politeness,


And political correctness, to boot.

they are so
rude!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!??????? ??????????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!


Naaah?

Irony much?


You mean, LIKE THIS?:

Hello Robin,

Robin Nuttall wrote:
Handsome Jack Morrison wrote:
On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 14:01:38 -0500,
Jeff Dege wrote:


Is that the same Jeff Dege who can't train
his own dog not to attack innocent defenseless
dumb critters despite his shock collar and
perfect come command?:

From: Jeff Dege
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 21:58:22 -0500
Subject: Squirrell chasing / Prey drive !!!!

On Tue, 13 Sep 2005 19:06:57 -0400, buzzsaw wrote:
A Loose Leash !?! Are you kidding me ... this dog is ready to go and the
site of a squirell he is gone loose leash, tight leash, no leash.


He can see them clear as far as 5 blocks,
in fact when a leaf blows he is ready to bounce.


He sees a empty water bottle, or a sprinkle head
on the grass as approaching he is tensing up
because it just may be rocky the squirell.


I think the e collar is appropiate here?
Although I never used one on him.


Won't make any difference.

I've been using an e-collar with my JRT, and it's
worked wonders for his recall. But the one time
he bolted after something small and furry, he paid
no attention to the collar until after he'd brought
it to bay.

Jeff Dege.

P- should be used to describe removing or
withholding a reward to make a behavior decrease.


You mean, LIKE THIS?:

From: Gwen Watson
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 13:07:06 -0600
Subject: E-Collars - with Vibrator?

Robin Nuttall wrote:

Gwen Watson wrote:


KrisHur wrote:


Yes but most people that train to this level also
train for RL too unless of course you are refering
to kennel dogs. In my posts I am refering to family
members who are also achieving titles.


How many people do you actually know, personally,
who have OTCH dogs? Or even dogs with a UD or UDX?
I know quite a few, and not a single one of them
is a kennel dog. "Real life" manners vary by the
dog, with some being great and some being awful.


I can't say quite a few. But I can say 2.

At any rate the above is the answer I have been trying to obtain.

Still why is that these dogs have awful manners?

Inconsistency?

Lack of common sense on the handlers part?

Several reasons?

No real reason? Its all very interesting to me and I am
sorry my questioning this has upset and frustrated so many.
It was honest questions.

I have always thought or been told there is never a
bad question. It sure seems as though I have asked
a very bad question by wanting to know how this is
possible.

Gwen

From: Robin Nuttall
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 19:34:18 GMT

Subject: E-Collars - with Vibrator?

Gwen Watson wrote:

Still why is that these dogs have awful manners?
Inconsistency? Lack of common sense on the handlers
part? Several reasons?


Depends on the handler. Some people care about good
manners, some people don't. But it's still totally
disconnected from whether the dog is a good competition
dog, which is the point.

To take it to agility, I know a lot of really top
agility competition dogs who are dog aggressive,
crate protective, etc. My own dogs are absolutely
awful beggars and counter surfers.

Obviously it doesn't bother me personally that much
because I haven't eradicated it. That doesn't mean
they are not trained to a very high level in other things.

No real reason? Its all very interesting to me and I am sorry
my questioning this has upset and frustrated so many. It was
honest questions. I have always thought or been told there
is never a bad question. It sure seems as though I have
asked a very bad question by wanting to know how
this is possible.


No, you've made people mad by nitpicking, overexaggerating,
going off on tangents, changing your questions, and not
bothering to read responses.

Questions are fine.

Not liking the answer and getting combative,
incoherent, and defensive is not so fine.

From: Robin Nuttall
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2003 04:27:24 GMT
Subject: If you HAD to re-home your dog(s)...

Both my girls would go back to their co-owner.

Viva, despite, or rather because, of her issues,
could go to almost anyone who could give her a
safe, calm environment.

Because of her very bad early start, she has a
real need to be bonded and have a human she can
count on.

Cala would be a different matter. She would need
an experienced working home--someone who knows
how to direct and channel drive without overuse
of correction.

A wimp would turn her into a frustrated and dangerous
dog. Someone who wanted to throw their weight around
and who was too heavy with corrections might also well
end up with a dangerous dog--she's got way too much
fight drive to back down if pushed.

Fortunately my co-owner is smart and could probably
find somewhere quite suitable for both of them.
Robin Nuttall.

Also, I think that the process of "withholding" a reward


Withholding rewards can cause aggression,
seizures, phobias of all sorts and OCD'S.

"Despite Skinner's clear denunciation of "negative
reinforcement" (1958) NEARLY EVERY LEARNING THEORY
model involves the USE OF PUNISHMENT. Of curse,
Skinner has never to my knowledge, demonstrated
how we escape the phenomenon that an expected
reward not received is experienced as a punishment
and can produce extensive and persistent aggression
(Azrin et al, 1966)."

that resulted in the decrease of a behavior


Witholding rewards increases anxiety which would
increase the behavior or cause the dog to throw
mindless meaningless unthinking random behaviors
to elicit the treat.

"Postitive emotions arising in connection
with the perfection of a skill, irrespective
of its pragmatic significance at a given
moment, serve as the reinforcement. IOW,
emotions, not outside rewards, are what
reinforces any behavior," Ivan Pavlov.

would probably more accurately be accounted
for by the *extinction* process.


That's so confusing to me I don't see how a dog
can figure it out especially when two or three
of you can't agree on what's going on with all
this alphabet soup.

Extinction is best facilitated by increasing
excitation or DRIVE and briefly alternately
(e.g. randomly presented non physical) distracion
instantly followed by prolonged (5-15 seconds)
and intermittently thereafter non physical praise
before the action is manifest and resume repeating
the process till you've successively - successfully
conditioned the subject's ability to NOT engage that
THOUGHT through NON fulfillment

It's EZ. Takes a little sense of timing, a confident
gently tone, and consistent tempo, IOW, Pavlovian
conditioning.

Should take four repetitions with four different
stimuli in four different environments to EXTINGUISH
ANY BEHAVIOR.

"...all the highest nervous activity, as it manifests
itself in the conditional reflex, consists of a continual
change of these three fundamental processes -- excitation,
inhibition and disinhibition." Ivan P. Pavlov

Here's a way I use P- in its classic sense.


Is that P as in punishment praise or poo poo?

Cala loves agility.


Most dogs do. But your dogs "love it" because
they're hyperactive and this vents their anxiety.
How can you "compete" in agility if you got a
dog aggressive bitch who won't even heel after
a year and a half of jerking choking shocking
bribing intimidating crating and ignoring???:

From: "Robin Nuttall"
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 13:26:20 GMT
Subject: Warning about Dog Trainer

There are pullers, then there are PULLERS. Viva
is one of the former, and has learned to walk
very nicely on a loose leash. I'm convinced that
Cala is genetically incapable of walking on a
loose leash.

She's almost 18 months old now, and we have been
working on the issue since I first put a leash on
her. She's so high drive that *nothing* I do is
as reinforcing to her as pulling. I can stand still
till I keel over--she just stands there at the end
of the leash, pulling as hard as she can. I can do
sneak aways until I am dizzy, we just get yo-yo
effect ("okay, I'll pull THIS way now!).

I can clicker her for loose leashes until my thumb
falls off--and she still pulls.

A click and treat is not as reinforcing as the world
around her. Our only real solution at this point is
the pinch collar, which keeps her from totally wearing
me out, or hurting herself by actually flipping at the
end of the leash.

I have a feeling this is something that she will
only develop with age, and will come regardless
of any training I do or don't do.

And yes, I've trained many, many dogs to walk on
a loose leash, but not this one... Robin Nuttal.

It's very highly reinforcing for her.


You mean when she ATTACKS you because she
gets lots of treats and praise. Do you
suppose that's what's caused your dog's
SEPARATION ANXIETY?:

From: Robin Nuttall
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 15:47:17 GMT
Subject: Crating/Caging: What constitutes abuse?

J1Boss wrote:
Sally wrote:
A guest/foster dog who just needs to chill out.
A dog who's so wound up that they just can't seem
to stop themselves, and I need to do something -
like eat or shower or breathe.


Cala is one of those puppies who, when she's tired, just
gets more and more and more and more wound up until she's
on the verge of total meltdown. While it's amusing to see
her tearing through the house on warp speed, it's advantageous
to everyone, including her, if she's crated when she gets
totally wound like that.

I cheerfully tell her she's a good puppy and take her to
her crate. Within 2 minutes she's usually sound asleep.
Keeps me from strangling her, and all she really needs at
that point is to be removed from stimulus so she can crash.
And she does.

No - don't say that - the crate bashers won't be have
any reason to call us thugs! I do use crates forever
though - in my car and at training class and shows.


Yep. Crates are good places. Crates are safe, and
crates take you to fun places and to do fun things.

Crates may be helpful to confine dogs with separation
anxiety, although many dogs with SA try to escape the
crate. Crates are safe places for dogs to hide when
visiting children annoy them. Crates are excellent
places for dogs to be confined when ill or injured.


Viva has some separation anxiety issues. It's difficult
for her to be uncrated when I'm not home. She feels she
must then take responsibility for the whole house as well
as anything and everything she may see outside.

It's a lot of pressure for her. If I leave her uncrated,
she's always a bit frantic when I get home. If I leave
her crated, she only has responsibility for her own space
and doesn't feel she has to guard the entire house and yard.

She is much calmer and happier being crated while I'm gone.
She'll never have the run of the house when I'm not home
because *she* doesn't like it. Robin Nuttall.

Pavlov Told Us So 100 Years Ago. Sam Corson,
Pavlov's Last Student Demonstrated At UofOH
Oxford, That Rehabilitation Of Hyperactive
Dogs Can Easily And Readily Be Done Using TLC.
Tender Loving Care Is At The Root Of The
Scientific Management Of Doggys.

But she had a lot of impulse and drive
control challenges when she was younger.


That so? You mean she was and still is hyperactive,
oppositional, fear aggressive even with opposite sex
dogs and turns on you when FRUSTRATED as per your
posted case history.

You've never finished those "control challenges",
not with EITHER dog especially Cala the one you
TRAINED for three years despite having raised her
since DAY ONE. Your dogs both have SEPARATION
ANXIETY amongst many other PROBLEMS.

Like this:

From: Robin Nuttall
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 00:29:21 GMT

Subject: Doggie temperament test

Suja wrote:
Robin Nuttall wrote:


Oh My. Whoever thought of this thing is an idiot.
Many of the STOP TEST AGGRESSIVE DOG responses are
exactly the responses you want to have in a high
drive, active, curious dog. I got so many of those
(pretty much all that way) for Cala that I stopped
taking the test. And she's not aggressive.


Well, I don't agree with that stupid test at all,
but Cala isn't what I'd call a Newbie dog, is she?


Nope. She's not. She's bred to her working heritage.
But that test doesn't talk about any of that. It
just makes blanket statements.

And FWIW, I full well realize the responsibility I
took on in breeding the litter I did, with the type
of working temperament I was looking for, and got.

Heck no, she's not a beginner dog, but I would never
have placed any dog out of this litter with a beginner
owner. Robin Nuttall.


From: Robin Nuttall
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 16:01:45 GMT

Subject: Shock and awe

shelly wrote:
In ,
Robin Nuttall typed:


My dogs don't get to make discipline decisions.
My dogs get to be nice with other dogs, period.
If they're not nice, they stay on lead until
they can learn to be nice.


exactly. that goes for being the Dog Police and for being
obnoxious brats who pick on other dogs. i don't tolerate
either of those behaviors within my own pack or between my
two and other dogs.


This is something I'm acutely attuned to.

Part of it is owning Dobermans, who have a bad rep anyway.
Part of it is that I know for a fact that my puppy's sire
is profoundly dog aggressive. It was the one thing I did
NOT like about using him, and the plusses outweighed the
minuses. But I watch Cala like a hawk. Being able to go
to offlead parks has actually helped, as she's gotten to
meet a large number of dogs of all shapes and sizes.

But our dog park is different than many in that it's a
huge area with trails cut through brush--mob mentality
doesn't often come into it. Robin Nuttall.

Namely she would sometimes get too excited,


And bite you:

From: "Robin Nuttall"
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 04:00:43 GMT
Subject: Does your dog do this?

"Andrea" wrote in message
...

The "sorry" look and licking is appeasment behavior.
Dogs to it to avoid retribution, not because they
really understand how to apologize. Really, you
should just teach her some bite inhibition so that
you don't get hurt, and she doesn't have to worry.


I totally agree, but with some dogs that's far
easier said than done.

Cala is finally showing signs of trying to keep
her teeth to herself, and it's been a constant
battle since she was a baby puppy. She's now 17
months old.

I have often been a total mass of bruises from
her releasing overdrive into a nip. Not that
she's ever full-out bitten me, but trust me,
those nips and pinches can be extremely painful.

The higher drive the dog is, the more difficult
it can be to deal with the issue. Robin Nuttall.

go over the top and vent drive by biting/nipping at me.


Because you are withholding treats choking shocking
intimidating and crating your highly driven working
dogs as per you posted case history which I've spent
the past couple of hours (maybe ten or so...) just
researching your ETHICKAL BREEDING program and your
high drive backyard bred genetically DEFECTIVE
"working dogs" which you'll ONLY SELL to show homes.

Interesting, compelling, sickening stuff, every bit
of it. You should be ASHAMED to post here ever again.
I had to force myself to quit with only the tip of
the iceberg uncovered thus far reading only posts
mentioning your dog Carla.

I had no idea you were a backyard breeder too!

You even bred your DEFECTIVE back yard bred bitch
to a DOG AGGRESSIVE sire to get the QUALITIES you
wanted, yet you still couldn't train Carla to come
or heel by 18 months of age, nor PASS the CGC!!!
despite having bred her from your own highly driven
working stock bitch.

And you got the NERVE to say you don't even "BELIEVE"
in the validity of the CGC test BECAUSE YOUR dogs
CONSISTENTLY FAIL TO PASS IT.

AND THEN YOU DISCOVERED your BACKYARD BRED "STUD"
WASN'T GENETICALLY HEALTHY and being the ETHICKAL
BREEDER you are, you had to CONSULT your business
partner who told you to give up on your backyard
ETHICKAL BREEDER project seein as THEY GOT STUNG
BIG TIME by you and your ignoramus shenanagains.

Did you notify your "WORKING SHOW HOME" PUPPY CUSTOMERS?:

From: Robin Nuttall
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 02:08:34 GMT
Subject: Breeders suck...
Shelly & The Boys wrote:

Then another friend who recently had a litter had
mentioned to me that she'd love to see one of her
pups go to me. I would've LOVED to have a pup
from her litter. However, for my next pup, I a)
want a bitch and b) want to wait at least 4 years
before acquiring another dog so that Bodhi gets
all training & attention that he should.

sigh All the work to get *into* the breed,
but apparently once you're in, you're gold. :-)


Yep, once good breeders figure out that not only
do you give your dogs a great home, but you do
actually work with them and title them, you pretty
much walk on water.

And if you're willing to keep a bitch
intact for awhile, you are God.

But I must admit that now that I'm going to spay Cala-
-a mutual decision between myself and my co-owner after
a rather major health problem showed up in her sire's
line--that I'm looking forward to not having any new
dogs for several years.

Maybe it's because Cala is enough to turn anybody's hair gray!

I plan to wait until she's at least 5 or 6 before
thinking about another puppy. That will put Viva
at 10 and probably near/at retirement, and Cala
should be well settled in and hopefully we'll be
a good team by then.

That said, I've already got my eye on a potential
breeding that should happen several years down the
road... Robin Nuttall.

Obviously this was a no-go.


Seems your entire posted case history 'JUST SEZ NO!'.

IN FACT, it rather makes you LOOK like a lying
dog abusing punk thug coward as we've SEEN and
we AIN'T EVEN GOT STARTED building your GALLOWS
with your own written words, Robin.

However, I found that a hard correction (P+)
tended to ramp her up even higher.


Why would you need to HURT a highly driven working
dog force IT to do what he was SELECTIVELY BRED to
do? Wouldn't you think that'd make your selective
breeding program a MOCKERY and a HOAX, Robin?

Or would you prefer to call it a CRUEL JOKE
on all them puppy customers you STUNG by being
a ETHICKAL BREEDER and breeding to a known dog
aggressive "stud" (but that's IRRELEVENT as all
temperament and behavior problems are CAUSED
BY MISHANDLING not BREEDING) who just happend
to turn out to have a CONGENITAL DISEASE that
you OVERLOOKED in your ETHICKAL BREEDERS PROGRAM?

Nice goin Golden Girl Goddess!

She has a very high fight drive


You mean she PAINICKS when you hurt and intimidate her.

and will actively move into a physical correction.


You mean she TRIES TO ATTACK you so you got to HANG
HER like you done to that fear aggressive Irish Wolfhound
in your "class" and jerked and choked IT like how you
do your own fear aggressive hyperactive out of control
factory DEFECTIVE bitches.

And not only that, but P+ corrections actually put
her even higher into drive, not something I want
to happen in this case.


INDEED? How did you determine that?

So instead, I started simply taking her
to her crate when she bit me.


But of course:

Jen wrote:
"Robin Nuttall" wrote in message
news:txeVe.324546$x96.272690@attbi_s72...


Yep. Jen keeps saying, "Oh, I don't mean anything
negative" while continuously slamming people for
"cruel" methods that she can't even define.


Those who slavishly devote themselves to one type of
training and who condemn others are the poorer for it.

I clicker train. I use choke collars. I shape behaviors.
I use drive work for focus and intensity. I use pinch
collars. I use harnesses. I use food. I use positive
and negative punishment.

Some of these things I use frenquently. Some very
infrequently. I tend to focus my training in the
quadrants of positive reinforcement and negative
punishment, and am far more likely to eliminate
undesired behavior through ignoring it than any
other way.

I'll also grab my young dog by the collar, lift
her up on her back feet, and tell her to KNOCK
IT OFF in no uncertain terms when the little snot
gets into overdrive and bites me.

If you want to discuss training, discuss it here.
But be willing to listen as well as talk. And
please stop top posting. Robn Nuttall.

I was withdrawing her ability to


TO BITE YOU.

do a very highly reinforcing task--agility.


Ummm, wasn't THAT what makes her BITE YOU?

If this agility GAME is SO REINFORCING why can't
you train her to do the tables and stop line and
A frame and not attack you when you hurt her for
being OBSTINATE and SKITZY in the ring?

Further, I was doing it in a way that did
not put her any higher in drive.


You mean hyperactive oppositional and aggressive
when you jerk choke shock ignore and withhold
attention affection rewards trust and respect.

She learned that biting/nipping resulted
in the fun stuff stopping.


You mean the jerking choking shocking and withholding.

She spent enough time in the crate to
safely come down out of drive,


You mean she felt safe and could relax again.

then I would take her out and we would do something simple


Or she'd ATTACK you again.

and praise for being in drive without being over the top.


You mean you praise her for BEING HYPERACTIVE and
NOT ATTACKING you again. Perhaps you should use PREY
DRIVE as well?

You got a volatile dog there. Better watch out
your SHOCK COLLAR don't spark an explosion. I'd
be PREYIN to the Golden Girl Goddess if I was you.

It's been very effective.


Do tell?

"Robin Nuttall" wrote in message
news:yX1Hb.664461$Tr4.1669501@attbi_s03...

sionnach wrote:
I wish I didn't have otherleftitis.


"Otherleftitis" -I love it!


Just out of curiosity... and this question's
to everyone who trains for tables, esp. Robin:
do you train an automatic down on the table,
with a quick pull up into a sit if needed- or
do you train the table as two seperate things-
first get on the table, then sit or down?


With Viva I trained the latter--she was my first
agility dog and I had less than adequate instruction
during her foundation, and have been paying for it
since, especially on obstacles and the table.


You mean you can't train her despite your shock and
choke devices and slices of Processed American Cheese
Food Substitute cut evenly into 25 equal pieces.

However, I have retrained her to do a down first
and it's helping, but swear to Dog the judges in
this area request a sit 75% of the time and a down
only 25%! The down is now mostly adequate, the sit
still sucks twinkies.


Perhaps you should try a piece of liver between
your lips so she'll at least pay attention when
you speak to her?

With Cala I've trained "get up on the table and lay down."
But even though I've done that from day one, I'm still
having some trouble with it--when she's in drive she
imitates her mother and stands there screeching like a
banshee instead of doing her job.


That's because you jerk and choke and shock her.
She also gets skitzy on the stop line on the ramp.
That's the other obstacle you got to her her to do.

She barks and screams at you just like Susan Fraser's
dog was shrieking on line and nearly got himsel
DISQUALIFIED from entering any more trials for the
same reason.

I usually turn my back on her and that helps.


Of course. Works EVERY TIME, don't it.

Sure would be nice to get a fast down on the
table but I'm sure not having much success...


You're not having any "success" because you HURT
your dogs, Robin. You've crippled two of them with
so called Woblers's SYNDROME from jerking and choking
them and Viva's got bi-lateral "arthritis" in her
front legs (is THAT PREREQUISITE for BACKYARD BREEDING
STOCK, Robin?) and your Cala nearly broke her back and
"dislocated" her rib when she took a fall off the ramp
she balks on for the same reason you can't even train
Cala to heel after having her from DAY ONE till 18 months
despite all your pain fear force and intimidation TOOLS:

From: Robin Nuttall
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 17:23:03 GMT
Subject: beginning agility

Rocky wrote:
Robin Nuttall said in rec.pets.dogs.behavior:


Oh yeah - when Friday's barking *at* me, I might as
well walk off the course. Naturally, I don't because
I'm going to use that expensive training time to the max.


Heh. And when Cala is in that mode walking off is the only solution.

I'm thrilled for both of you that your dogs have instant
and complete off switches. That's exceedingly rare.


Assuming there was no sarcasm in there - thank you!


Nope, no sarcasm.

Though only one of my dogs has an instant off (and on) switch,
and I'm doing whatever I can to exploit it while not ruining it.
It's funny, though - Friday will do a nanosecond down on the
agility table or at the line, but do you think that I can get
him to do it away from a trial situation?


And I can get super fast downs everywhere
BUT the table. With both dogs.

I've been working the table a lot more with both
dogs, trying to help the issue, but it's definitely
a weak spot, and since I have the same issue with
both dogs (slow sits and downs, barking) it's got
to be a fault in my training. Robin Nuttall.

From: Robin Nuttall
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 17:04:36 GMT
Subject: Opinions please...sorry, got long...

Sionnach wrote:
No, humans should not be allowed to do anything,
anywhere, at any time. However, if, say, I have
my dog at the vet, and the vet is trying to do
something with me supervising the dog, I'd be
extremely surprised and upset if the dog protested
in my presence--they know that's not allowed
and for those moments the vet becomes an extension
of me. (I can do this, I'm saying the vet can do
this, so deal with it). However, in my absence, I
wouldn't be surprised if a vet trying to do something
with my dog did elicit a growl. It's never happened
yet but you never know.


With my three- Brenin would never growl at the vet
or a tech, with or without me. He's very unhappy if
seperated from me, and will try to get back to me,
but he's compliant if I've indicated he should go with
someone.

He also DOES NOT bite, even in situations where nobody
would have blamed him if he had- for instance, when someone
he barely knew scared the heck out of him by suddenly
grabbing him from behind, picking him up, and flipping
him over.


Rocsi will growl if caused pain (for example, when the
vet was palpating a sore foot), but it's not a threat,
merely a communication- she doesn't show teeth or make
any attempt to use them, just grumbles & tries to pull
away. I don't have any qualms about letting her be
handled away from me, either.


Well yeah, I'd of course not object if my dog yelped
or growled in pain, though I've never had one growl.

Dobermans tend to be so stoic and so silent that it's
actually a problem--they will NOT show signs of pain
at the vets even if you practically twist their affected
part off their body. So the vet is going, "gee, she seems
fine!" and once I get them home they won't even put a foot
down.

Cala is the first dobe I've ever had that is what
I call a Drama Queen, and man, she plays it to the
hilt. Banged her foot on something the other night
and had a barely perceptible lump. Acted like she
was going to die, limped dramatically until the
next morning when she would alternate limping
pitifully with charging full speed after her ball.

Then she'd remember, "oh, I'm supposed to be hurt!"

From: Robin Nuttall
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 16:07:48 GMT
Subject: beginning agility

Gwen Watson wrote:

Robin Nuttall wrote:


I'm thrilled for both of you that your dogs have
instant and complete off switches.


That's exceedingly rare.


Why is it that everytime someone has a different opinion
then your own you reply in such a way? You do demonstrate
the inability for diversity of opinions. Too often have a
seen such remarks from you.


Gwen, it was an HONEST admiring comment. I AM thrilled
that they have instant and complete off switches. Many
people, including me, do not have dogs who are capable
of that. I am GLAD for them that they do. I think it's
got to be in some way genetic.

Viva can come out of drive somewhat quickly, but not
that fast. Cala has trouble coming out of drive at all.

I see you're off on the whacko side again today...and yes,
THAT is meant exactly the way it sounds. You have to be one
of the dumbest people I've ever interacted with on usenet,
and being as I've been here for 10 years now, that's pretty
impressive in and of itself.

*Cala had a very nasty fall off a dogwalk a couple of weeks
ago, landed on her side so hard she bounced up in the air
about 6 inches, and dislocated a rib. Luckily my acupuncturist
was actually in the building that night and was able to slip
the rib back into place.

The next week she was better but her back was now out of
place, so an acupuncture treatment fixed that up and now
she's fine! I know that Solo has issues. I wonder if you
could find an acupuncturist who would be willing to let
you just come hang out for several sessions so Solo can
get comfy, perhaps while he/she is even treating someone
else.

I know my dogs wouldn't mind as long as the other person
and dog weren't disruptive. A good acupuncturist can do
wonders for little miscellaneous ouchies like he's got.
Robin Nuttall.

Subject: Agility

She's 10.5 months old, and has had very little growth
since she was 7.5 months old--when she went into season.
It's somewhat rare for a large breed dog to have a first
season that young--it's more common for it to happen at
about 10-12 months. And she wasn't pulled in by Viva-
-Viva is going into season right now, 3 months after Cala.

So I'm curious to see whether or not Cala's growth
plates will close early. Even if they have, she's
nowhere NEAR ready mentally to do a lot of work,
much less physically. Robin Nuttall.


From: Robin Nuttall
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 03:17:25 GMT
Subject: Teaching dogs to be calmer....

Rocky wrote:
HolierThanThou said in rec.pets.dogs.behavior:


he isn't hyper like a Jack Russel, or anything.
He isjust busy.


Friday is this way as well. He has a great fast down
and a good stay/wait, but as soon as we hit agility -
Things Change. His down goes from fast to lightning
fast but his stay/wait goes out the window.


It's not that he isn't trained, obviously - he's just changed
gears and, at this stage, I'm not going to extraordinary
lenght to "fix" this and perhaps take the fun out of it.


You know, I'm having a lot of success teaching the stay
as an active part of the game instead of as a boring
"stay there till I say different" exercise.

So instead of asking for a sit or a down, I get Cala to
offer me one for what she wants. Sit, and you get to tug.
Down, and you get a click and a treat, etc.

I've expanded that to a game of sit and wait. (down and
wait). It's very simple. I get a VERY favored toy out.
She has learned to offer a sit. If she gets up before I'm
ready for her to, I simply remove the toy before she can
get to it.

She has to go back and sit again to get the toy. So she's
learning that waiting is merely a prelude to lots more fun!

I conclude the game with a set of commands that she knows
is going to trigger her release. For us, it's "Ready" said
in a teasing drawn out way, then "Okay! GO!!!" for a release
to grab the toy or treat or just run around like an idiot.

She's getting to LOVE the wait game! And because she's
waiting IN drive, I think she will retain it at the start
line better than a conventional stay. Robin Nuttall.

Yeah? We'd think you can use your effective
stay command when you're fighting and bribing
your dogs to hold still for a nail trimmin:

Subject: Trimming claws
Robin Nuttall Mar 30 2003,

I first click and treat for simply turning the dremel
on and having it near them, then click and treat for
holding a foot while the dremel is on, then drop the
clicker (not enough hands!) and at first treat after
each nail, weeding that to a treat after each foot,
then a treat after it's done. With Cala, who truly
does hate it, I sweeten the pot by giving her a tiny
treat as we start, then a bigger treat when we're done.

She still hates it, but will willingly hop on the
couch and will even fight (well not really fight,
you know what I mean) Viva for the prime grinding
position. Robin Nuttall.

From: Robin Nuttall
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 22:46:35 GMT

Subject: Ping Gwen (& Robin N.)
agility (was: I want this dog)

Gwen Watson wrote:

Robin Nuttall wrote:
Cala sounds wonderful Robin. I know she
is going to give you a Mach some day!


If I don't kill her first. Viva will get her MACH long before Cala.

How serious is this. I have never heard of it.
Is there a way to prevent it, or is it fairly
easy to remedy?


It can be a chronic problem. It needs rest
and specific rehabilitation

I know a rather alarming number of bigger
dogs with arthritis in their front feet-
-Viva has this.


I am sorry to hear that. Do you notice it more
in the winter? I forget how old lovely Viva is. 6?


Viva is 6. Part of hers is because she's missing
a tendon in one foot due to a bad injury 3 years
ago. She gets lots of supplements. Robin Nuttall.


From: Robin Nuttall
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2004 01:25:06 GMT
Subject: A Note to Owners of Non-Aggressive dogs and Agility

Susan Fraser wrote:
No. Sorry, but no. I know you kind of meant that as a
joke, but so often, when I say, "my dog doesn't like
other dogs in her face," people will say, "well, if
Fifi goes over there, she deserves to get bitten,"
or "let your dog put my dog in her place!"


Yes, I totally meant it as a joke. And even though I
read your AgileDogs post first, I see now that you do
realize it was a joke and were just using the post
to illustrate a point.


*Of course* I do not expect your dog to teach mine
a lesson. (And I am aghast that someone would!)


I hear it ALL the time. Many, many times when I say,
"she doesn't like other dogs in her face," I hear
"Oh, I hope she bites him, he needs to learn a lesson."
It's maddening. And yes, I was just using your post to
make a point on agiledogs.

In the case of teaching puppies some manners, I have
often felt that instead of play times with equally
clueless peers at puppy kindergartens, it would be
more appropriate for my pushy golden pups to have a
group of adult dogs of various breesd and temperaments
to interact with - to mentor to them how to
show respect and keep an appropriate distance, etc.


And yes, that would be 'using' the older dogs, but when
we keep our pups on a leash and refuse to let them interact
with various types of older dogs, how are they to learn
appropriate behaviors within their own species?


That's exactly what I did with Cala. Cala's sire is actually
very dog aggressive. So from a tiny puppy, I made a point to
get Cala out with a variety of dogs, of all ages, shapes,
and sizes.

Some were moresubmissive than her, some were bolder.
Some put her in her place, some did not. She learned
very good dog language skills. Unfortunately, she did
get attacked at least three times when she was young.

Not in these social situations, but by a friend's bitch
who hates puppies. At first, it looked like this would
have no lasting repurcussions.

But as she's matured, Cala has become more
reactive to strange dogs.

Part genetic?

Perhaps. The good thing is, that if you just give her
(literally) five minutes, she relaxes, realizes things
are okay, and is happy to play with the other dog unless
it's truly obnoxious and pushy.

And she isn't looking for a fight--if a dog does tell
her to knock it off, she will flatten to the ground
immediately. Robin Nuttall.

You're lookin at the problemS the wrong way.

These dogs are not "high drive," they're HYPERACTIVE
from MISHANDLING.

Your "training efforts" have made them NERVEHOWES.

The "zippy zoomies" are NOT exuberance, they're ANXIETY.

The dog KNOWS you cannot HURT IT in a trial...same same
same same reason lying "I LOVE KOHELER" lynn's dog Jive
gets high scores in the ring (she trains in a ring daily),
but CANNOT BE FORCED TO WORK A SAR JOB, the same same as
Jeff Dege CAN'T TRAIN HIS OWN DOG not to break command to
attack innocent furry critters despite his SHOCK COLLAR
trained reliable come command.

BWWWWWWAHAHAHAHAAAA!!!

"Robin Nuttall" wrote in message
news:mtYYa.102050$YN5.71125@sccrnsc01...


"EmilyS" wrote in message
om...
KWBrown wrote in message

.1.4...
"Robin Nuttall" wrote in
news:GKOYa.98019$YN5.69581@sccrnsc01:


Basically if I had this dog I would take her to her
"boundry" area for the creek--the place where she
goes from being normal to frenzied.


I would stop just at that line and ask for attention.
I wouldn't command attention. Instead I would simply
ignore any and all attempts to getto the stream, and
wait for the dog to calm down and look at me.


When I had focus, I would calmly release to the
creek with a trigger word.


I think I'm going to take this approach with Storm
the next time she zooms at agility practice. I'll
bring her near the course and wait for attention
before we do anything - and become still and boring
the instant she loses focus. I don't want to shut
down all that drive, but she has *got* to pay
closer attention!


Kate


the classic "solution" for ring zoomies is to run
away and hide outside of the ring when she starts
zooming. Everyone else is supposed to completely
ignore her, as well.


NO reinforcment.


Presumably at some point, the brainz that have been
leaking out of her head recede. And then she will
notice "mom" is missing and she'll start looking for
you rather frantically. Then someone alerts you and
you come back, calling her excitedly.


Yes but that's more of a punishment. Not that it's not
a valuable tool, but we're talking about two different
things. One is asking for control before something happens
and rewarding control with access to the desired activity,
the other is reacting to a situation when it's already
gotten OUT of control.


Dogs with drive need to learn how to channel and direct
that drive. It's fun to watch them because it's great to
have a motivated dog and everyone is scared to shut them
down. On the other hand, you must be able to focus and
control that drive or you will never have a consistent
performer.


And the best way to do that is to help the DOG learn
how to reward himself.


Instead of you demanding something from him and the
situation continuing to escalate as you both get more
frenzied, you are calm and you simply wait for the dog
to be calm. This might be a LONG wait in some instances,
but you've got to do it.


And you have to know what you're looking for and
reward it *instantly* with a release to the desired
object/behavior.


So if my goal is to have attention from my dog at
the beginning of an agility routine, I will wait
for her to focus on me by looking at me for a few
seconds.


I will then release her to the equipment. As time
goes by, I will ask for more focus and direction.


Eventually I want her to be able to work with a
favored toy in full view, and know that she must
perform what I want to get it.


From: "The Puppy Wizard"
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 18:23:20 GMT

Subject: Thou Foul Beast, Thou Basest Worm...

HOWEDY robin,

You're a MENTAL CASE.

If you can't pupperly handle dogs you shouldn't
be takin care of them. Fancy that, you talkin
abHOWET "Thou Foul Beast, Thou Basest Worm..."

"Robin Nuttall" wrote in message
news:fWSfc.3645$0b4.11722@attbi_s51...

I have a houseguest this weekend, Jura, a Scottish
import Springer. And Cala (2 year old Dobe) is just
being SO insufferable. Now mind you, she knows this
dog, she's known him since he was a baby puppy and
he's now a year old. But she's discovered that as
he's a mere MALE and she's a BITCH, she can reduce
him to quivering jelly. And she's really, really
enjoying it.


I'm always reminded of the scene in McCaig's Nop's
Trials where Nop totally falls in love with the b**ch
in the next run, and for days she spurns him in formal
verse. Cala is telling Jura,


"Thou foul beast, thou basest worm, thou artst scum,
thou art not fit to lick the dung from the bottom of
mine feet."


All this is accompanied by extravagant facial expressions,
typically showing each of her 42 teeth in glorious, shining
white.

And poor Jura is awed.

"Oh, thou artst beauteous, might I be permitted
to worship thou toenails?"


Now mind you, this is TOTALLY different than what
happens when Nell stays here. Nell, dingo-dog, 10
years old and 30 pounds of tough, walks into this
house and owns it. Viva tolerates her benignly (just
like she's doing with Jura). Cala gives her a very,
very wide berth.


Poor Jura.


A Poor Shepherd Boy And His Dog At His Masters Feet.

 




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