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#11
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If you change the diet, monitor box activity and keep plenty of fluids around, often it does not occur again. I sure would not consider "E"!!! At the first sign of stress (less frequent urination or small balls of urine clumps in box) get him to the vet. The big cost you've had is the catheterization and hospitalization. I hope that your insurance comes through. If you can catch any episodes early, it should not be so expensive. Keep LOTS of bowls of water around. Consider switching to canned food. Get a definite diagnosis of the crystals so the righ food can be found. I don't understand the confusion about which kind of crystal it is. Thanks for the reply Karen. The ER vet saw a few calcium oxylates. We swicthed him to canned food to swing the Ph in the opposite direction. Then a ua revealed a possible struvite; vet tech wasn't certain because the urine was bloody at that time. At any rate, the vet school doc (thank god we have a great vet school hospital here) put him on a canned food that creates a neutral ph. I live in a community where vets charge a fortune. I happen to be a community college teacher, and I live in the area because I work here. But I don't make the income that many of this vets clientelle do. ava |
#12
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If you change the diet, monitor box activity and keep plenty of fluids around, often it does not occur again. I sure would not consider "E"!!! At the first sign of stress (less frequent urination or small balls of urine clumps in box) get him to the vet. The big cost you've had is the catheterization and hospitalization. I hope that your insurance comes through. If you can catch any episodes early, it should not be so expensive. Keep LOTS of bowls of water around. Consider switching to canned food. Get a definite diagnosis of the crystals so the righ food can be found. I don't understand the confusion about which kind of crystal it is. Thanks for the reply Karen. The ER vet saw a few calcium oxylates. We swicthed him to canned food to swing the Ph in the opposite direction. Then a ua revealed a possible struvite; vet tech wasn't certain because the urine was bloody at that time. At any rate, the vet school doc (thank god we have a great vet school hospital here) put him on a canned food that creates a neutral ph. I live in a community where vets charge a fortune. I happen to be a community college teacher, and I live in the area because I work here. But I don't make the income that many of this vets clientelle do. ava |
#13
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Thanks Laura. Maybe I can use one of my micro-wavable heating pads to put
under the towel. I'm trying to find some place in the Twin Cities where I can volunteer for a day and give fluids to several cats. I think that would help. (HTH=Here's to health?), ava On Sun, 23 Nov 2003, Laura R. wrote: circa Sun, 23 Nov 2003 08:52:14 -0800, in rec.pets.cats.health+behav, afr ) said, Ninetten days ago, my 8 1/2 year old cat george was howling. I took him into the ER and he was blocked. They unblocked him, and my vet kept him for a few days and sent him home. (ER vet saw calcium oxylate crystals and vet may have seen a struvite. He's on a Ph neutral food now that the University vet school where I went for a consult, put him on.) What seems to have brought him around is administering fluids every other day. This past week, I've been able to back off to every third day. My problem is that I live alone and so have been having vet techs come to the house to administer the fluids. I cannot get my cat to sit still for the approx. 7-8 minuts it takes to get the 150 ml of fluids in him. We had a followup urinalysis taken yesterday. Specific gravity looks good and no crystals seen. Tomorrow I will know the results of some other things they are looking for.. My problem is I am tapped out financially...spent about $2,000 on this, didn't even pay this month's bills yet. I don't know how much I'll get back from the insurance company. I live on a tight budget. I am considering the "E" word, if I have to continue with fluids several times a wee k indefinitely.(He was reshopitalized twice before I took him to the university vet school who advised me about the at-home fluid therapy.) I know that all of these cases look different. Has anyone had a case like the one I'm describing--that took fluids over several weeks to stabilize? What was the pattern after that? You've been given some sage advice regarding cost and the "E" word, but I thought I'd toss in on the fluids issue. You *can* get a cat to accept, even relish, fluid administration. Hit http://www.crf.org, http://www.crf.com, and do a google search for "tips feline subcutaneous fluid". I have a cat with CRF who actually bugs me for his fluids every night and purrs throughout the procedure. It helps that I do a lot of things to make the fluid administration a pleasant experience. Here's what I do/have/set up: 1. I have a large radiator in my living room with a ceramic-tile top on it that never gets hot, but does get warm. The cats love sleeping on it. So, I've put a large, folded beach towel on top of it and I leave it there except when I swap it out for another and wash it. Jacob loves to sleep on it, so he associates it with comfort. 2. I take his fluids and put them on top of the same radiator about ten minutes before I administer them. They get to a temperature just a bit warmer than room temp (not hot!), which makes it much more comfortable for him. 3. I keep five days' supply of needles in the freezer. Frozen needles go in easier and are less painful (for humans as well as pets). I don't leave all the needles in the freezer because I don't want to damage them with the temperature fluctuations that come with opening and closing the freezer. 4. When it's time to give the fluids, I hang the fluid bag on a hook at the top of the window. It's one of those over-the-door clothing hooks, and I just slipped it over the top of the window, then closed the window (they open from both top and bottom). 5. I act as though getting fluids is a *treat* instead of a task for Jacob. If I'm afraid of sticking him, he's afraid of me doing it. If I act like this is something that is just part of our daily interaction and behave very comfortably with it, he doesn't freak out. 6. I get the needle from the freezer just before I get ready to inject him. I put him on the towel if he's not already there waiting (which he usually is), then quickly attach the needle to the tubing and run out a bit of fluid so that he's not getting the chillier fluid that's in the tube. (I run it right out the window, actually.) 7. I get out a bag of Pounce tartar control treats because Jacob loves them. I put them on the radiator and he immediately starts sniffing at them. I put a few on the towel in front of him, let him start eating one, then pick up a tent of skin above his shoulder blades, feel the "tent" with my finger to make sure I have a pocket to inject, and quickly, but not in a stabbing motion, slide the needle in. I open the stopcock on the fluid tube and make sure there's no crimp in the tube, then give him a few more treats. This is mainly so that he doesn't think we're done and jump down with a needle still under his skin. 8. I pet him under the chin while he's up there and act like I don't even notice that there's a needle under his skin, unless I lift the tent a bit to make sure the flow is unimpeded. If I ignore the needle, so does he. Cats have the fewest nerve endings in the skin above their shoulders, so that's where I stick. You can technically do it anywhere that they have loose skin, but they'll feel it more elsewhere. 9. It takes approximately two minutes to get 100ml of fluid into him- I use 18 gauge needles and open the flow valve fully so that it's a pure stream running from the bag instead of droplets. I lift the tent of skin periodically as I said, so that the skin doesn't block the flow of the fluids. The first couple of times I gave Jacob fluids, it was *not* this pleasant an experience. I think the keys are to make the experience as comfortable for the cat as possible and to make sure that your *own* discomfort with sticking your cat isn't visible. Your cat will read more from you than from anything else, so you have to be comfortable with what you're doing to him. Last, since Jacob *feels* better after the fluids, he has come to associate them as something pleasant. Dehydration is what causes hangovers, so if you've ever had a nasty hangover, you know how a dehydrated cat feels. Fluid administration gives them an almost instantaneous "anti-hangover" burst, so it doesn't take long for them to understand that that one little stick and the weird feeling of wetness on their shoulders brings them a good feeling. HTH, Laura -- When your life flashes before your eyes, make sure you've got plenty to watch. |
#14
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Thanks Laura. Maybe I can use one of my micro-wavable heating pads to put
under the towel. I'm trying to find some place in the Twin Cities where I can volunteer for a day and give fluids to several cats. I think that would help. (HTH=Here's to health?), ava On Sun, 23 Nov 2003, Laura R. wrote: circa Sun, 23 Nov 2003 08:52:14 -0800, in rec.pets.cats.health+behav, afr ) said, Ninetten days ago, my 8 1/2 year old cat george was howling. I took him into the ER and he was blocked. They unblocked him, and my vet kept him for a few days and sent him home. (ER vet saw calcium oxylate crystals and vet may have seen a struvite. He's on a Ph neutral food now that the University vet school where I went for a consult, put him on.) What seems to have brought him around is administering fluids every other day. This past week, I've been able to back off to every third day. My problem is that I live alone and so have been having vet techs come to the house to administer the fluids. I cannot get my cat to sit still for the approx. 7-8 minuts it takes to get the 150 ml of fluids in him. We had a followup urinalysis taken yesterday. Specific gravity looks good and no crystals seen. Tomorrow I will know the results of some other things they are looking for.. My problem is I am tapped out financially...spent about $2,000 on this, didn't even pay this month's bills yet. I don't know how much I'll get back from the insurance company. I live on a tight budget. I am considering the "E" word, if I have to continue with fluids several times a wee k indefinitely.(He was reshopitalized twice before I took him to the university vet school who advised me about the at-home fluid therapy.) I know that all of these cases look different. Has anyone had a case like the one I'm describing--that took fluids over several weeks to stabilize? What was the pattern after that? You've been given some sage advice regarding cost and the "E" word, but I thought I'd toss in on the fluids issue. You *can* get a cat to accept, even relish, fluid administration. Hit http://www.crf.org, http://www.crf.com, and do a google search for "tips feline subcutaneous fluid". I have a cat with CRF who actually bugs me for his fluids every night and purrs throughout the procedure. It helps that I do a lot of things to make the fluid administration a pleasant experience. Here's what I do/have/set up: 1. I have a large radiator in my living room with a ceramic-tile top on it that never gets hot, but does get warm. The cats love sleeping on it. So, I've put a large, folded beach towel on top of it and I leave it there except when I swap it out for another and wash it. Jacob loves to sleep on it, so he associates it with comfort. 2. I take his fluids and put them on top of the same radiator about ten minutes before I administer them. They get to a temperature just a bit warmer than room temp (not hot!), which makes it much more comfortable for him. 3. I keep five days' supply of needles in the freezer. Frozen needles go in easier and are less painful (for humans as well as pets). I don't leave all the needles in the freezer because I don't want to damage them with the temperature fluctuations that come with opening and closing the freezer. 4. When it's time to give the fluids, I hang the fluid bag on a hook at the top of the window. It's one of those over-the-door clothing hooks, and I just slipped it over the top of the window, then closed the window (they open from both top and bottom). 5. I act as though getting fluids is a *treat* instead of a task for Jacob. If I'm afraid of sticking him, he's afraid of me doing it. If I act like this is something that is just part of our daily interaction and behave very comfortably with it, he doesn't freak out. 6. I get the needle from the freezer just before I get ready to inject him. I put him on the towel if he's not already there waiting (which he usually is), then quickly attach the needle to the tubing and run out a bit of fluid so that he's not getting the chillier fluid that's in the tube. (I run it right out the window, actually.) 7. I get out a bag of Pounce tartar control treats because Jacob loves them. I put them on the radiator and he immediately starts sniffing at them. I put a few on the towel in front of him, let him start eating one, then pick up a tent of skin above his shoulder blades, feel the "tent" with my finger to make sure I have a pocket to inject, and quickly, but not in a stabbing motion, slide the needle in. I open the stopcock on the fluid tube and make sure there's no crimp in the tube, then give him a few more treats. This is mainly so that he doesn't think we're done and jump down with a needle still under his skin. 8. I pet him under the chin while he's up there and act like I don't even notice that there's a needle under his skin, unless I lift the tent a bit to make sure the flow is unimpeded. If I ignore the needle, so does he. Cats have the fewest nerve endings in the skin above their shoulders, so that's where I stick. You can technically do it anywhere that they have loose skin, but they'll feel it more elsewhere. 9. It takes approximately two minutes to get 100ml of fluid into him- I use 18 gauge needles and open the flow valve fully so that it's a pure stream running from the bag instead of droplets. I lift the tent of skin periodically as I said, so that the skin doesn't block the flow of the fluids. The first couple of times I gave Jacob fluids, it was *not* this pleasant an experience. I think the keys are to make the experience as comfortable for the cat as possible and to make sure that your *own* discomfort with sticking your cat isn't visible. Your cat will read more from you than from anything else, so you have to be comfortable with what you're doing to him. Last, since Jacob *feels* better after the fluids, he has come to associate them as something pleasant. Dehydration is what causes hangovers, so if you've ever had a nasty hangover, you know how a dehydrated cat feels. Fluid administration gives them an almost instantaneous "anti-hangover" burst, so it doesn't take long for them to understand that that one little stick and the weird feeling of wetness on their shoulders brings them a good feeling. HTH, Laura -- When your life flashes before your eyes, make sure you've got plenty to watch. |
#15
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Thanks Laura. Maybe I can use one of my micro-wavable heating pads to put
under the towel. I'm trying to find some place in the Twin Cities where I can volunteer for a day and give fluids to several cats. I think that would help. (HTH=Here's to health?), ava On Sun, 23 Nov 2003, Laura R. wrote: circa Sun, 23 Nov 2003 08:52:14 -0800, in rec.pets.cats.health+behav, afr ) said, Ninetten days ago, my 8 1/2 year old cat george was howling. I took him into the ER and he was blocked. They unblocked him, and my vet kept him for a few days and sent him home. (ER vet saw calcium oxylate crystals and vet may have seen a struvite. He's on a Ph neutral food now that the University vet school where I went for a consult, put him on.) What seems to have brought him around is administering fluids every other day. This past week, I've been able to back off to every third day. My problem is that I live alone and so have been having vet techs come to the house to administer the fluids. I cannot get my cat to sit still for the approx. 7-8 minuts it takes to get the 150 ml of fluids in him. We had a followup urinalysis taken yesterday. Specific gravity looks good and no crystals seen. Tomorrow I will know the results of some other things they are looking for.. My problem is I am tapped out financially...spent about $2,000 on this, didn't even pay this month's bills yet. I don't know how much I'll get back from the insurance company. I live on a tight budget. I am considering the "E" word, if I have to continue with fluids several times a wee k indefinitely.(He was reshopitalized twice before I took him to the university vet school who advised me about the at-home fluid therapy.) I know that all of these cases look different. Has anyone had a case like the one I'm describing--that took fluids over several weeks to stabilize? What was the pattern after that? You've been given some sage advice regarding cost and the "E" word, but I thought I'd toss in on the fluids issue. You *can* get a cat to accept, even relish, fluid administration. Hit http://www.crf.org, http://www.crf.com, and do a google search for "tips feline subcutaneous fluid". I have a cat with CRF who actually bugs me for his fluids every night and purrs throughout the procedure. It helps that I do a lot of things to make the fluid administration a pleasant experience. Here's what I do/have/set up: 1. I have a large radiator in my living room with a ceramic-tile top on it that never gets hot, but does get warm. The cats love sleeping on it. So, I've put a large, folded beach towel on top of it and I leave it there except when I swap it out for another and wash it. Jacob loves to sleep on it, so he associates it with comfort. 2. I take his fluids and put them on top of the same radiator about ten minutes before I administer them. They get to a temperature just a bit warmer than room temp (not hot!), which makes it much more comfortable for him. 3. I keep five days' supply of needles in the freezer. Frozen needles go in easier and are less painful (for humans as well as pets). I don't leave all the needles in the freezer because I don't want to damage them with the temperature fluctuations that come with opening and closing the freezer. 4. When it's time to give the fluids, I hang the fluid bag on a hook at the top of the window. It's one of those over-the-door clothing hooks, and I just slipped it over the top of the window, then closed the window (they open from both top and bottom). 5. I act as though getting fluids is a *treat* instead of a task for Jacob. If I'm afraid of sticking him, he's afraid of me doing it. If I act like this is something that is just part of our daily interaction and behave very comfortably with it, he doesn't freak out. 6. I get the needle from the freezer just before I get ready to inject him. I put him on the towel if he's not already there waiting (which he usually is), then quickly attach the needle to the tubing and run out a bit of fluid so that he's not getting the chillier fluid that's in the tube. (I run it right out the window, actually.) 7. I get out a bag of Pounce tartar control treats because Jacob loves them. I put them on the radiator and he immediately starts sniffing at them. I put a few on the towel in front of him, let him start eating one, then pick up a tent of skin above his shoulder blades, feel the "tent" with my finger to make sure I have a pocket to inject, and quickly, but not in a stabbing motion, slide the needle in. I open the stopcock on the fluid tube and make sure there's no crimp in the tube, then give him a few more treats. This is mainly so that he doesn't think we're done and jump down with a needle still under his skin. 8. I pet him under the chin while he's up there and act like I don't even notice that there's a needle under his skin, unless I lift the tent a bit to make sure the flow is unimpeded. If I ignore the needle, so does he. Cats have the fewest nerve endings in the skin above their shoulders, so that's where I stick. You can technically do it anywhere that they have loose skin, but they'll feel it more elsewhere. 9. It takes approximately two minutes to get 100ml of fluid into him- I use 18 gauge needles and open the flow valve fully so that it's a pure stream running from the bag instead of droplets. I lift the tent of skin periodically as I said, so that the skin doesn't block the flow of the fluids. The first couple of times I gave Jacob fluids, it was *not* this pleasant an experience. I think the keys are to make the experience as comfortable for the cat as possible and to make sure that your *own* discomfort with sticking your cat isn't visible. Your cat will read more from you than from anything else, so you have to be comfortable with what you're doing to him. Last, since Jacob *feels* better after the fluids, he has come to associate them as something pleasant. Dehydration is what causes hangovers, so if you've ever had a nasty hangover, you know how a dehydrated cat feels. Fluid administration gives them an almost instantaneous "anti-hangover" burst, so it doesn't take long for them to understand that that one little stick and the weird feeling of wetness on their shoulders brings them a good feeling. HTH, Laura -- When your life flashes before your eyes, make sure you've got plenty to watch. |
#17
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in article , afr at
wrote on 11/23/03 2:05 PM: Thanks Laura. Maybe I can use one of my micro-wavable heating pads to put under the towel. I'm trying to find some place in the Twin Cities where I can volunteer for a day and give fluids to several cats. I think that would help. (HTH=Here's to health?), ava HTH (hope that helps) On Sun, 23 Nov 2003, Laura R. wrote: circa Sun, 23 Nov 2003 08:52:14 -0800, in rec.pets.cats.health+behav, afr ) said, Ninetten days ago, my 8 1/2 year old cat george was howling. I took him into the ER and he was blocked. They unblocked him, and my vet kept him for a few days and sent him home. (ER vet saw calcium oxylate crystals and vet may have seen a struvite. He's on a Ph neutral food now that the University vet school where I went for a consult, put him on.) What seems to have brought him around is administering fluids every other day. This past week, I've been able to back off to every third day. My problem is that I live alone and so have been having vet techs come to the house to administer the fluids. I cannot get my cat to sit still for the approx. 7-8 minuts it takes to get the 150 ml of fluids in him. We had a followup urinalysis taken yesterday. Specific gravity looks good and no crystals seen. Tomorrow I will know the results of some other things they are looking for.. My problem is I am tapped out financially...spent about $2,000 on this, didn't even pay this month's bills yet. I don't know how much I'll get back from the insurance company. I live on a tight budget. I am considering the "E" word, if I have to continue with fluids several times a wee k indefinitely.(He was reshopitalized twice before I took him to the university vet school who advised me about the at-home fluid therapy.) I know that all of these cases look different. Has anyone had a case like the one I'm describing--that took fluids over several weeks to stabilize? What was the pattern after that? You've been given some sage advice regarding cost and the "E" word, but I thought I'd toss in on the fluids issue. You *can* get a cat to accept, even relish, fluid administration. Hit http://www.crf.org, http://www.crf.com, and do a google search for "tips feline subcutaneous fluid". I have a cat with CRF who actually bugs me for his fluids every night and purrs throughout the procedure. It helps that I do a lot of things to make the fluid administration a pleasant experience. Here's what I do/have/set up: 1. I have a large radiator in my living room with a ceramic-tile top on it that never gets hot, but does get warm. The cats love sleeping on it. So, I've put a large, folded beach towel on top of it and I leave it there except when I swap it out for another and wash it. Jacob loves to sleep on it, so he associates it with comfort. 2. I take his fluids and put them on top of the same radiator about ten minutes before I administer them. They get to a temperature just a bit warmer than room temp (not hot!), which makes it much more comfortable for him. 3. I keep five days' supply of needles in the freezer. Frozen needles go in easier and are less painful (for humans as well as pets). I don't leave all the needles in the freezer because I don't want to damage them with the temperature fluctuations that come with opening and closing the freezer. 4. When it's time to give the fluids, I hang the fluid bag on a hook at the top of the window. It's one of those over-the-door clothing hooks, and I just slipped it over the top of the window, then closed the window (they open from both top and bottom). 5. I act as though getting fluids is a *treat* instead of a task for Jacob. If I'm afraid of sticking him, he's afraid of me doing it. If I act like this is something that is just part of our daily interaction and behave very comfortably with it, he doesn't freak out. 6. I get the needle from the freezer just before I get ready to inject him. I put him on the towel if he's not already there waiting (which he usually is), then quickly attach the needle to the tubing and run out a bit of fluid so that he's not getting the chillier fluid that's in the tube. (I run it right out the window, actually.) 7. I get out a bag of Pounce tartar control treats because Jacob loves them. I put them on the radiator and he immediately starts sniffing at them. I put a few on the towel in front of him, let him start eating one, then pick up a tent of skin above his shoulder blades, feel the "tent" with my finger to make sure I have a pocket to inject, and quickly, but not in a stabbing motion, slide the needle in. I open the stopcock on the fluid tube and make sure there's no crimp in the tube, then give him a few more treats. This is mainly so that he doesn't think we're done and jump down with a needle still under his skin. 8. I pet him under the chin while he's up there and act like I don't even notice that there's a needle under his skin, unless I lift the tent a bit to make sure the flow is unimpeded. If I ignore the needle, so does he. Cats have the fewest nerve endings in the skin above their shoulders, so that's where I stick. You can technically do it anywhere that they have loose skin, but they'll feel it more elsewhere. 9. It takes approximately two minutes to get 100ml of fluid into him- I use 18 gauge needles and open the flow valve fully so that it's a pure stream running from the bag instead of droplets. I lift the tent of skin periodically as I said, so that the skin doesn't block the flow of the fluids. The first couple of times I gave Jacob fluids, it was *not* this pleasant an experience. I think the keys are to make the experience as comfortable for the cat as possible and to make sure that your *own* discomfort with sticking your cat isn't visible. Your cat will read more from you than from anything else, so you have to be comfortable with what you're doing to him. Last, since Jacob *feels* better after the fluids, he has come to associate them as something pleasant. Dehydration is what causes hangovers, so if you've ever had a nasty hangover, you know how a dehydrated cat feels. Fluid administration gives them an almost instantaneous "anti-hangover" burst, so it doesn't take long for them to understand that that one little stick and the weird feeling of wetness on their shoulders brings them a good feeling. HTH, Laura -- When your life flashes before your eyes, make sure you've got plenty to watch. |
#18
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in article , afr at
wrote on 11/23/03 2:05 PM: Thanks Laura. Maybe I can use one of my micro-wavable heating pads to put under the towel. I'm trying to find some place in the Twin Cities where I can volunteer for a day and give fluids to several cats. I think that would help. (HTH=Here's to health?), ava HTH (hope that helps) On Sun, 23 Nov 2003, Laura R. wrote: circa Sun, 23 Nov 2003 08:52:14 -0800, in rec.pets.cats.health+behav, afr ) said, Ninetten days ago, my 8 1/2 year old cat george was howling. I took him into the ER and he was blocked. They unblocked him, and my vet kept him for a few days and sent him home. (ER vet saw calcium oxylate crystals and vet may have seen a struvite. He's on a Ph neutral food now that the University vet school where I went for a consult, put him on.) What seems to have brought him around is administering fluids every other day. This past week, I've been able to back off to every third day. My problem is that I live alone and so have been having vet techs come to the house to administer the fluids. I cannot get my cat to sit still for the approx. 7-8 minuts it takes to get the 150 ml of fluids in him. We had a followup urinalysis taken yesterday. Specific gravity looks good and no crystals seen. Tomorrow I will know the results of some other things they are looking for.. My problem is I am tapped out financially...spent about $2,000 on this, didn't even pay this month's bills yet. I don't know how much I'll get back from the insurance company. I live on a tight budget. I am considering the "E" word, if I have to continue with fluids several times a wee k indefinitely.(He was reshopitalized twice before I took him to the university vet school who advised me about the at-home fluid therapy.) I know that all of these cases look different. Has anyone had a case like the one I'm describing--that took fluids over several weeks to stabilize? What was the pattern after that? You've been given some sage advice regarding cost and the "E" word, but I thought I'd toss in on the fluids issue. You *can* get a cat to accept, even relish, fluid administration. Hit http://www.crf.org, http://www.crf.com, and do a google search for "tips feline subcutaneous fluid". I have a cat with CRF who actually bugs me for his fluids every night and purrs throughout the procedure. It helps that I do a lot of things to make the fluid administration a pleasant experience. Here's what I do/have/set up: 1. I have a large radiator in my living room with a ceramic-tile top on it that never gets hot, but does get warm. The cats love sleeping on it. So, I've put a large, folded beach towel on top of it and I leave it there except when I swap it out for another and wash it. Jacob loves to sleep on it, so he associates it with comfort. 2. I take his fluids and put them on top of the same radiator about ten minutes before I administer them. They get to a temperature just a bit warmer than room temp (not hot!), which makes it much more comfortable for him. 3. I keep five days' supply of needles in the freezer. Frozen needles go in easier and are less painful (for humans as well as pets). I don't leave all the needles in the freezer because I don't want to damage them with the temperature fluctuations that come with opening and closing the freezer. 4. When it's time to give the fluids, I hang the fluid bag on a hook at the top of the window. It's one of those over-the-door clothing hooks, and I just slipped it over the top of the window, then closed the window (they open from both top and bottom). 5. I act as though getting fluids is a *treat* instead of a task for Jacob. If I'm afraid of sticking him, he's afraid of me doing it. If I act like this is something that is just part of our daily interaction and behave very comfortably with it, he doesn't freak out. 6. I get the needle from the freezer just before I get ready to inject him. I put him on the towel if he's not already there waiting (which he usually is), then quickly attach the needle to the tubing and run out a bit of fluid so that he's not getting the chillier fluid that's in the tube. (I run it right out the window, actually.) 7. I get out a bag of Pounce tartar control treats because Jacob loves them. I put them on the radiator and he immediately starts sniffing at them. I put a few on the towel in front of him, let him start eating one, then pick up a tent of skin above his shoulder blades, feel the "tent" with my finger to make sure I have a pocket to inject, and quickly, but not in a stabbing motion, slide the needle in. I open the stopcock on the fluid tube and make sure there's no crimp in the tube, then give him a few more treats. This is mainly so that he doesn't think we're done and jump down with a needle still under his skin. 8. I pet him under the chin while he's up there and act like I don't even notice that there's a needle under his skin, unless I lift the tent a bit to make sure the flow is unimpeded. If I ignore the needle, so does he. Cats have the fewest nerve endings in the skin above their shoulders, so that's where I stick. You can technically do it anywhere that they have loose skin, but they'll feel it more elsewhere. 9. It takes approximately two minutes to get 100ml of fluid into him- I use 18 gauge needles and open the flow valve fully so that it's a pure stream running from the bag instead of droplets. I lift the tent of skin periodically as I said, so that the skin doesn't block the flow of the fluids. The first couple of times I gave Jacob fluids, it was *not* this pleasant an experience. I think the keys are to make the experience as comfortable for the cat as possible and to make sure that your *own* discomfort with sticking your cat isn't visible. Your cat will read more from you than from anything else, so you have to be comfortable with what you're doing to him. Last, since Jacob *feels* better after the fluids, he has come to associate them as something pleasant. Dehydration is what causes hangovers, so if you've ever had a nasty hangover, you know how a dehydrated cat feels. Fluid administration gives them an almost instantaneous "anti-hangover" burst, so it doesn't take long for them to understand that that one little stick and the weird feeling of wetness on their shoulders brings them a good feeling. HTH, Laura -- When your life flashes before your eyes, make sure you've got plenty to watch. |
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Ava wrote:
My problem is I am tapped out financially...spent about $2,000 on this, didn't even pay this month's bills yet. I don't know how much I'll get back from the insurance company. I live on a tight budget. I am considering the "E" word, if I have to continue with fluids several times a week indefinitely.(He was reshopitalized twice before I took him to the university vet school who advised me about the at-home fluid therapy.) I know that all of these cases look different. Has anyone had a case like the one I'm describing--that took fluids over several weeks to stabilize? What was the pattern after that? Laura gave you some excellent ideas for giving fluids. The only thing I would add to that is that an easy way to warm fluids is to put some of the line in a bowl of hot water after you get the needle in and start the flow. This works very well to gently warm fluids as they are being administered and is easy to do. As far as the future goes, there is *no* need to consider euthanizing your cat. Feeding him on a high quality canned only diet (Wellness, Innova and Felidae are good brands) will greatly increase his water intake, which in turn will keep his bladder flushed and minimize the chances that crystals will cluster and form a blockage. It is also important that you don't free feed, instead feeding him on a schedule (every 12 hours.) This will not only lessen his chances of having reoccurrences, but if you pay close attention to the amount he is fed, his extra weight will come off as well. Megan "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." -Edmund Burke Learn The TRUTH About Declawing http://www.stopdeclaw.com Zuzu's Cats Photo Album: http://www.PictureTrail.com/zuzu22 "Concerning all acts of initiative (and creation), there is one elementary truth the ignorance of which kills countless ideas and splendid plans: that the moment one definitely commits oneself, then providence moves too. A whole stream of events issues from the decision, raising in one's favor all manner of unforeseen incidents, meetings and material assistance, which no man could have dreamt would have come his way." - W.H. Murray |
#20
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Ava wrote:
My problem is I am tapped out financially...spent about $2,000 on this, didn't even pay this month's bills yet. I don't know how much I'll get back from the insurance company. I live on a tight budget. I am considering the "E" word, if I have to continue with fluids several times a week indefinitely.(He was reshopitalized twice before I took him to the university vet school who advised me about the at-home fluid therapy.) I know that all of these cases look different. Has anyone had a case like the one I'm describing--that took fluids over several weeks to stabilize? What was the pattern after that? Laura gave you some excellent ideas for giving fluids. The only thing I would add to that is that an easy way to warm fluids is to put some of the line in a bowl of hot water after you get the needle in and start the flow. This works very well to gently warm fluids as they are being administered and is easy to do. As far as the future goes, there is *no* need to consider euthanizing your cat. Feeding him on a high quality canned only diet (Wellness, Innova and Felidae are good brands) will greatly increase his water intake, which in turn will keep his bladder flushed and minimize the chances that crystals will cluster and form a blockage. It is also important that you don't free feed, instead feeding him on a schedule (every 12 hours.) This will not only lessen his chances of having reoccurrences, but if you pay close attention to the amount he is fed, his extra weight will come off as well. Megan "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." -Edmund Burke Learn The TRUTH About Declawing http://www.stopdeclaw.com Zuzu's Cats Photo Album: http://www.PictureTrail.com/zuzu22 "Concerning all acts of initiative (and creation), there is one elementary truth the ignorance of which kills countless ideas and splendid plans: that the moment one definitely commits oneself, then providence moves too. A whole stream of events issues from the decision, raising in one's favor all manner of unforeseen incidents, meetings and material assistance, which no man could have dreamt would have come his way." - W.H. Murray |
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